History of Diamond Shapes

Did you know that all the diamonds ever discovered would fit into just one London bus? These mesmerizing gemstones are among the rarest and most unique substances found on Earth, with the number of diamonds being recovered decreasing year after year. The art of gemstone cutting is just as exceptional, as it remains a craft performed entirely by hand to this day. In fact, only about 10% of the jewelry industry ever gets to witness this remarkable skill up close. But how exactly are diamonds cut, and what sets the different cuts apart?

Before a diamond is shaped, it first goes to a skilled architect who meticulously maps out the best approach to maximize the diamond’s potential. From there, the rough diamond is sent to expert cutters, who bring to life some of the most famous and sought-after shapes.

Round Brilliant Cut

The round brilliant cut is undoubtedly the most popular diamond shape, known for its exceptional sparkle and timeless appeal. Its design was perfected in the early 20th century by Marcel Tolkowsky, a Belgian diamond cutter. His aim was to maximize brilliance through ideal angles and facets, and the round brilliant cut has since become the standard for diamond engagement rings.

Did you know the round brilliant cut is considered the most versatile diamond shape? Its sparkling effect is suitable for any style, from vintage to modern settings. It accounts for over 75% of all diamonds sold today!

Princess Cut

The princess cut is a relatively modern creation, first introduced in the 1960s by Arpad Nagy, a diamond cutter. This square-shaped cut is beloved for its contemporary appearance and remarkable brilliance, owed to the fact that diamond cutters can usually cut more facets into princess cuts than others. Princess cuts are designed with a pointed shape and a square or rectangular outline, offering a balance between the round cut’s brilliance and the elegance of a square.

Looking to purchase a diamond soon? Princess cuts are usually less expensive than other shapes like round because more of the rough stone is retained during cutting.

Cushion Cut

The cushion cut, often referred to as the “old mine cut,” has been around for centuries and dates back to the 18th century. This shape is a hybrid between a square and a round cut, with rounded corners and larger facets, giving it a soft, romantic look. The cushion cut was incredibly popularin the 19th century, but its appeal has recently made a strong comeback, especially in vintage-inspired designs.

Have you ever heard of The Hope Diamond? This famous (and supposedly cursed) diamond is a cushion cut weighing over 45 carats!

Emerald Cut

The emerald cut is distinguished by its rectangular shape and unique “step” facets (facets that come off the diamond’s face) that create a hall of mirrors effect, showcasing the clarity of the diamond. This cut was originally designed for emeralds, which have a lower hardness compared to diamonds, making them more prone to breaking. The design, however, was so beautiful that it was adapted for diamonds and quickly gained popularity. Because the emerald cut is all about clarity, it’s one of the best cuts for diamonds with a higher clarity grade, as the facets allow any inclusions or flaws to be more visible!

Oval Cut

The oval cut has become increasingly popular in the past years though many celebrity engagement rings including Hailey Bieber, Blake Lively, Kourtney Kardashion, Lady Gaga, and more. Outside of this recent rise in popularity though, the oval was introduced back in the 1960s by the famous diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan. With its elongated shape, the oval cut maximizesthe diamond’s size appearance and often looks larger than other diamonds with the same carat weight, it especially shines on someone with longer fingers.

Oval cuts tend to have a unique “bow-tie” effect, which refers to the darkened area in the center of the diamond. This can add to its character and create a dramatic appearance!

Marquise Cut

The marquise cut has a long, oval shape with pointed ends, and it is believed to have been designed by King Louis XV of France in the 18th century. The cut was said to be created in honor of the Marquise de Pompadour, a lover of the French king. Because of its elongated form, this ring creates an elongated and slimming effect on the wearers hand.

The marquise cut is often referred to as the “navette” in French, meaning “little boat.” Additionally, when originally being designed it was shaped based off Marquise de Pompadours lip shape.

Pear Cut

The pear cut, also known as the teardrop shape, combines the round and marquise shapes into a stunning, graceful diamond. The pear cut has also seen a recent rise in popularity among the media most commonly when being used in the Toi-e-Moi ring similar to Megan Fox’s and Emily Ratajkowski’s past engagement rings. First introduced in the 1400s, the pear cut is most commonly used in jewelry like pendants and earrings due to its elegant teardrop shape.Due to its look, the pear-shaped diamond is often compared to the term tears of joy, symbolizing love and happiness in a romantic relationship!

Heart Cut

Among the many cuts that showcase a diamond’s brilliance, the heart-shaped dismount stands out as the most romantic. With its graceful curves and pointed tip, this shape has become a symbol of love itself. In fact, heat-shaped diamonds have captured the imaginations of countless admirers and have even become famous for their breathtaking beauty as each side of the diamond are perfectly even. The elegance, uniqueness, and symbolism behind this shape make it stand out among traditional cuts like round, oval, and princess.

Did you know the heart shaped diamond evolved from pear-shaped cuts in the 16th century? Additionally, some of the world’s most famous diamonds are heart shaped including The

Cullinan V , the adequately named Heart of Eternity, and Taj Mahal Diamond.

Asscher Cut

The Asscher cut, considered the cousin of the emerald shape, is a square shape with deep step cuts. First introduced in 1902 by the Asscher brothers of Amsterdam, this vintage cut has a distinct, sophisticated look. It quickly rose to popularity in the early 20th century during the Art Deco era and is also seeing a resurgence today as people are searching for more unique vintage jewelry pieces. The Asscher cut was the first time someone ever patented a diamond cut. The global headquarters of the Asscher family is still located in the same spot from its founding in 1854 in Amsterdam.

About The Author

Debbie Azar is the Co-Founder and President of Gemological Science International (GSI), one of the largest gemological organizations in the world, and a distinguished leader in the global diamond and jewelry industry. As an executive with extensive knowledge of the jewelry and gem lab industries, her entrepreneurial skills and vision have helped GSI achieve rapid and continuous growth worldwide, establishing 13 leading-edge gemological facilities on four continents. She currently serves on the boards of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, Responsible Jewellery Council, and Jewelers for Children, and is a member of the 24 Karat Club of New York. She has been featured in Forbes, Daily Mail, Good Morning America, Bloomberg, Bloomberg Businessweek, Fox Business, Fox5, CBS2, BOLDTV, Varney&Co, The Street, and NASDAQ, among others.